Tips to Choose The Right Style Of Wedding Photographer For Your Wedding

The ill-fated aspect of your wedding day is that it is, well, just one day. The best wedding photographer can beautifully maintain the whole occasion’s happenings, the feelings, and the fun– permanently! One ideal image can quickly take you back to the happiest day of your life, and one ideal CD can become your preferred coffee table book.

A lot of photographers begin out by shooting wedding events when it comes to professional photography. This can indicate learning a great deal of potential hires prior to you find the ideal one for you. Below are basic ideas for finding a genuine expert photographer who will articulate the occasion precisely how you wish to remember it.

1. Begin searching right away

You really got engaged– Congratulations! Now begin trying to find an expert photographer for your wedding. The reality is, the very best expert photographers reserve their schedules a year beforehand, so working with somebody is among the first things you must do after you’ve set the date.

If your strategies call for an out-of-season wedding event or a Sunday event, there is a great possibility your picked professional photographer is readily available. If you’re having a more distinctively timed wedding event, offer yourself 6 months to find the professional photographer of your dreams.

2. Check out your network

Great wedding event professional photographers have a credibility for success and can even be regional celebs. They must be the most convenient to find, however that does not suggest they’re the very best for you. Seek to Facebook pages and professional sites for samples of work, post, and customer testimonials.

3. Cut down your choices

Take a comprehensive appearance into their services to start getting rid of prospects who aren’t an excellent fit when you have a list of your leading choice professional photographers. Determine which professional photographer will fulfill your budget along with your particular requirements. Think about how well they carry out in different settings and environments. If you are tossing a beach wedding event, it makes sense to find a professional photographer who is skilled at outside photography.

4. Have interview with each one

After narrowing your option of wedding event professional photographers to around 3, make consultations to talk to the prospects. Likely, the professional photographer will have 2 or 3 wedding event CDs readily available to reveal. Make certain you see a minimum of one cd of a complete wedding event, ideally something that is similar to what your wedding event will resemble in physical setting and psychological tone. After analyzing all the sample work carefully, demand to see another set of pictures from a current wedding event. This will allow you to see both his best work from the pre-selected CDs and his typical everyday work. Some things to bear in mind:

Examine the fundamentals of the photos such as color, quality, graininess, direct exposure and composition.
Determine the professional photographer’s design– does she shoot images that are creative and daring, or are they basic and normal?
Do the visitors look uneasy or natural?
Do the images record the psychological tone naturally, or does do the couple’s positions feel required?

What’s the Perfect Camera?


There are three digital features that have an impact on your picture quality, they are;

1. Resolution (pixel count)

2. File format

3. ISO setting


Simply put, camera resolution refers to the number of pixels that a camera can capture. Pixels refer to the square looking “tiles” of color that comprise all digital images.

Camera resolution is usually measured in megapixels. A megapixel represents 1 million pixels, 2 megapixel means 2 million pixels and so on.

Megapixels have always been a major consideration in the purchase of digital cameras even when people don’t understand what that is. To print a good snap shot of 5-x-7-inch prints or more, you need at least a 1 megapixel image. Today, however, most cameras come with not less than 3 megapixels at less than $100. With the right knowledge on megapixels and how they apply to images, you can save yourself a lot of money by not necessarily going for high end megapixels but for the ones that matter.

Choosing a digital camera with a number of megapixels depends on how you would like to use your photos. The list below gives you some guide to this;

• VGA resolution (640 x 480 pixels): The VGA resolution is good when you want to post your images or share them on e-mail, post it on a web page or use it for presentations. If you are going for a quality print with a VGA resolution, you will definitely be disappointed.

• One megapixel: with a 1 megapixel camera, you can get an acceptable image mostly or only for an on-screen picture use.

• Two megapixels: With 2 megapixels, you can produce very good 5 x 7- inch prints and acceptable 8 x 10s.

• Three megapixels: With this many pixels, you can generate good 8 x 10s.

• Four megapixels and up: If you like to produce prints that are larger than 8 x 10, go for 4 megapixels or more

It’s worth knowing that if you want to go larger number of megapixels, endeavor to find out if the model can shot images at lower resolution. This is because the higher the resolution, the higher the space needed to hold the image or picture file. The best cameras offer a choice of two to three resolutions setting that most times comes with the names such as “Good, Better, Best” or “Fine, Basic, Normal.”

So to summarize, unless you are going for very large prints or making lots of close cropping, you will be satisfied with just 3 megapixels. This will save you a lot of money to invest in other accessories like zoom lens and a good photo printer.


Just as pixel count is important in digital photo, file formats equally plays an important role as file formats used to record your pictures. Digital cameras rely mostly on three formats for saving picture files: JPEG, TIFF, and Camera Raw (or Raw, for short). Here is a brief introduction on the file formats:

• JPEG (jay-peg): This format is the standard for digital-camera images. All Web browsers and e-mail programs can display JPEG photos, which mean that you can go straight from the camera to the online world. JPEG has a disadvantage, though: When JPEG files are created, they’re compressed, a process that throws away some image data in order to shrink file sizes. Smaller files are great, allowing you to fit more pictures on a camera memory card and reducing the time required to share images online. But although a small amount of compression does little noticeable damage, a high degree of compression seriously degrades picture quality

• TIFF: Unlike JPEG, this format retains all critical image data. That means the best possible image quality, but also files that are significantly larger than JPEG files. And you can’t share TIFF files online without first opening them in a photo editor and converting them to JPEG

• Camera Raw (or just Raw): When you shoot in the JPEG or TIFF format, the camera does some post-capture processing to refine color, contrast, and other picture qualities. In the Raw format, none of these changes are applied. You get uncooked, “raw” data right from the image sensor. This format is designed for photographers who want to control whether and how any tweaking is done to the image-sensor data, in the same way that some film experts like to develop and print their own negatives. Because no compression is applied, Raw files are larger than JPEG files. More important, you must use a special piece of software called a Raw converter to tell your computer how to translate all the raw data into a digital picture. Note that some manufacturers give Raw files a proprietary label. For example, Nikon Raw files are called NEF files.

It’s best if you find cameras that can enable you choose from 2 or all of the three file formats. You can find cameras that will two versions of each picture (JPEG+Raw or JPEG+TIFF option).

That said, if you are not that kind of photographer that is demanding and have the right skills to “process” and “fine tune” images, JPEG alone is just fine.


Some people still use film cameras these days and their film information is held in a film negative. Same goes for a digital camera. Every picture file is saved either in the cameras inbuilt memory (often referred to as on-board memory) or in an electronic storage tank (often referred to as removable memory card). Few cameras rely on inbuilt memory while most cameras now rely on removable memory card.

Sincerely speaking, I advise you to go for cameras that support a removable memory card. Why do I say this; well, going for an in-built gives you these limitations:

• When you fill up your on-board memory, you will have to either delete some pictures.

• You will have to empty your on-board memory into a computer before you can continue taking more pictures. Can you estimate the time spent and opportunities wasted? I just can’t imagine people waiting for you to empty your on-board memory first so as to continue your shot. That’s ugly.

To be on the safer side,

• Get yourself a camera that supports a removable memory card. You can get yourself a cheap accessory called a memory card reader that helps you quickly transfer files into your computer.

• You could equally print directly from your memory card as some printers have slots for memory cards. You could equally take the card to a photo lab for printing.


Some cameras come with a viewfinder, other with only a monitor (LCD screen meaning liquid-crystal display) and some even come with both.

• Viewfinders are little looking windows you look through to compose pictures when using a screen camera. Viewfinders are found on most cameras and loved by many as it gives you stability when taking your shot.

• LCD or Monitor is found a lot now on recent cameras. It gives you a broad view of your subject and even gives you the chance to view your subject from different angles (there are cameras that provide you with monitors that swivels giving you different angles of view).

How To Choose The Right Photography Class

These days you can learn practically any skill or craft by going online. There are many resources where you will surely find the tutorials you need. When you lounge around forums, you will be able to find seasoned pros dispensing helpful tips freely. This is indeed great news if you are an aspiring photographer. But why should you enroll in a photography class?

The Benefits of Taking Photography Classes

First, you get to study in a structured and positive environment.
Next, you learn to hone your skills under the tutelage of experienced pros.
Additionally, you get to meet new friends and expand your network.
Finally, you can bounce ideas and get immediate answers to your questions which are difficult to get answers for.

Important Factors to Consider in Choosing a Photography School

Below are some tips if you are planning to enroll in classes for photographers:

Identify your needs. Have a fair idea of the actual things that you want to learn from your classes before beginning your search. Are you a beginner who simply wants to learn, understand and master the basics? Would you like to learn more advanced concepts like model posing and multiple exposures?

Know your schedule. How much time can you allocate for your lesson? You would want to opt for a school that can accommodate your busy schedule if you currently have a day job.

Begin your search. The best place to go first is online. You can also solicit suggestions from your friends or relatives. You may be able to find a few photography schools operating near where you live or work. If there is a photography club in your area, enquire whether they offer classes or not. Create a shortlist of potential schools to enroll in.

Review the courses. Go to the shortlist of potential schools you have created and check the courses offered. Does the syllabus and the goals you have set match? More often, classes are broken down into these three categories: beginner, intermediate and advanced. Opt for the lower level if you are unsure which level would fit you best. This will allow you to master the basics first before advancing to the higher level.

Check the work and credentials of the instructor. Before you enter a photography class in that school, talk to former students and get their reviews of the instructors. Photography instructors should not only produce outstanding work. Do remember that they should also be good communicators because that is where good relationship and good learning starts.

Enroll in a photography class to enhance you skill. Some lessons may include a detailed Photoshop tutorials. This tool is necessary to transform your images into amazing photos.

Amateur Guide to Photography

OK, I am assuming you all know how to take a photo with your camera and have fully read the manual… nope, nor did I!

You get your camera out of its box and charge it up and start snapping on auto asap, I am the same with anything new to be honest, its only when I really can’t figure it out Ill actually start reading the manual. Anyway, so after wandering around and trying the zoom and snapping at anything that moved – mostly ducks! I am guessing you took photos of ducks! why is that? why do new photogs always take lots of photos of ducks? Its like we are hoarding them for some special duck event one day! Anyway I am sure you wanted to know what the dials do and what all the numbers mean as to be honest the photos you intend to take had better be superior than what a mobile phone produces – even if it is ducks.

Forget the numbers.

I am going to keep this simple for you so we can move on and actually start doing the cool stuff and not worry about the complete science of everything. Skip this by the way if you are already using your camera on Tv, Av or Manual.

To alter your settings on your camera, you are going to have to turn the dial on top so that it reads (for Canon) M, Av or Tv. If you are using the little pictures on top or the green square your camera is still on auto and will not let you change much. If you have your camera right now, set it to M. Don’t be scared, we are just playing with settings not taking a master class.

STOP! – F-stop – so what’s F/16? or F/5.6 right in the middle of my camera?

This number is a control for your lens (light is measured in stops the same as on a ruler distance is organised in to centimetres, I am not going into the history and science of these numbers here) only and it does two things.

Assuming you have a standard cheap kit lens (the lens they gave you with the camera) it will be capable of giving you F3.5 to F32. Now, it is cheap and due to technical issues it can’t hold these numbers if you set them and zoom in or out – I will go into more detail later on a compare between a cheap lens and a pro lens. Just know for the moment we are going to work on F5.6 to F22 OK.

So clear your head and forget these numbers have odd numbers like F3.5 or F4.0, just know each time you raise this number from its lowest to highest number you are making two changes at once.

We will start with F5.6 to F8. Setting a low number opens a doorway inside your lens allowing light to come in and once you have focussed onto something it creates a more blurred background. This is one of the most popular settings to use for portraits and even landscape photography.

To increase this blurring, zoom in to your subject and take a shot (stand back and zoom in if you have to) and see the result. Although you will get some background blur without zooming in, when you zoom in with a low F-stop number the background magnifies even more. On another article I will go into Bokeh/Prime lens vs a zoom lens later on and more.

So guess what the high number does…

Yes, from F/8 to F/22 you start to increase the depth of field and the photo gets sharper front to back and you are also limiting the amount of light coming into the camera. Again, if you want front to back sharpness don’t zoom in too much!

So forget the numbers, just know that a low number is good for low-light photos with blurring and know that a high number is good for front to back sharpness and limited incoming light. The next trick is balancing the light to control your photo.

The Next Trick

You might be taking a photo on a very bright day but want to use F/2, but your shots are coming out very very bright or white almost (over-exposed). You need a way of controlling the light without changing this number. This is where your shutter comes into play and the shutter also controls two things. It can be slowed down to allow more light to come in which helps with your exposure, but the draw back here is anything moving in front of the camera could potentially be blurred. In this case we are talking about more light in the scene so if your shooting at F2 then push the shutter speed higher and freeze frame the scene.

One way to experiment with this is set your camera to Tv mode (shutter priority) and try some shots on a slow speed and some on a high speed. Compare your photo’s and you will see the camera made adjustments for you to effect the photo because of the shutter speed changes you made fast or slow.

Shutter Play.

Sunset Settings…

When you press that button to take your photo, you here a “click-click”. That is the little door inside your camera (shutter) moving out of the way so the light coming into your lens passes through to your camera sensor (device that records light and ends up on your SD card).

You can control how slow or fast this shutter opens and closes. So the longer you leave it open the more light hits the sensor until you get the desired exposure.


The camera is sensitive to light which is why sometimes your photos may come out too bright or dark if you’re not in control. Let’s say the photo you want to take take was at the end of a sunset and the light was not very plentiful, but I wanted to shoot it at F/16. Which as you should now know this number limits light coming into the camera but gives front to back sharpness of the scene?

SO… by slowing down the shutter I have given the camera more time enough to compensate for the lack the light of the day (ambient light) and the controlled light coming into the lens and expose the camera long enough to create a balanced photo exposure. If you hear someone saying “I exposed for 5 secs” he may not be a flasher…

Now I say slowing down the shutter, the average normal speed of your shutter is considered to be 1/125 sec. This speed is reasonably fast enough to hold your camera steady to take a photo. I can hold my camera and take a snap-photo at 1/60 sec, anything slower and I will likely have a blurred photo from my own movement. But in this case my camera is on a tripod so I can have more shutter control at my disposal as and when I need it.

Now this is where it starts to come together, let’s suppose I took the same photo with an F-stop of f/2.8. I can’t leave the shutter at 1/4 as so much light would come into the camera the photo would be “over-exposed” and be bright and washed out.

You’re a juggler with intent

So to compensate I would have to increase the shutter speed so that it opens and closes quicker. And this is where I am starting to get to with all this, to get the photo the way we want it we have to learn to balance light. If you make a change of your F-stop, you will need to make an adjustment of another sort elsewhere to compensate for this. As we go on you will hopefully understand this better.

Know that your camera is your tool, it may have lots of fancy processors and metering systems but you are in the hot seat (I would not want it any other way!) and your camera does not know what you’re trying to do or what it is looking at. So as a juggler of light, you will eventually know when to press that shutter button and make that photo.

The other control your shutter offers is a sense of movement or the opposite, complete motion freeze. Now if you need your F-stop number to stay where it is, Tv mode is not for you because in this mode it is going to keep your shutter speed fixed at what ever you terll it to but the auto-ISO and F-stop is going to be constantly changing (take a photo indoors on Tv mode and outdoors and look at its settings – see manual for photo details).

Something to try;

Now for this quick experiment we want to control the speed of the shutter and you can’t do this in Av Mode. Instead M for manual is what we will need here but we are going to leave the ISO to the camera (as we are not talking about the ISO right now, make sure it is set to auto and not a number and we will come to this eventually).

So in manual set your F-stop to F5.6 and then adjust your shutter dial to a slow low number say 1/20secs take a shot (and dont worry about what you shoot) and then set it to 1/200 and take a shot. Assuming you have set it correctly your camera has kept the same photo exposure (by changing the ISO setting in the background) but you managed to keep the F-stop the same whilst making adjustments to the shutter. You can do the same process to the shutter as well by repeating the same experiment but instead change the F-stop number.

Set the shutter to 1/80secs for the moment but instead change the F number to f5.6 and take a shot and then set to F22 and shoot again. So, the same exposure but the same shutter speed too and let’s not forget the lessons of blurring or bokeh as it is also known. So what did we just learn? here is a breakdown;

Photo at Shutter 1/20 – too blurry for hand held but quality of shot is good (ISO)

Photo at shutter 1/200 – Sharp, frozen photo with some bokeh

Photo at F5.6 – Generally sharp for hand hold and background begins to blur from focus point

Photo at F22 – Sharp front to back but picture quality may have been sacrificed (ISO, don’t panic ISO is almost next!)

The Big Freeze

So here is a little bit more of shutter speeds, the faster your shutter speed is, the quicker it opens and closes inside your camera which limits light into the camera. On a bright summer day you can happily take photos at a speed of 1/200secs and get good hand held photos and if its really really sunny you can push this up higher as you see fit. The more you push this number the quicker the photo and the more “frozen” the scene is. Not because its cold of course but movement is frozen in that time. For example pick up any sports magazine and you will see footballers in mid air, sweat drops and footballs in a solid state. The photog that took these shots would have used a fast shutter speed like 1/800 – enough to catch a Formula One car!

Find a fountain and shoot at 1/4000 secs!

If you shoot at this speed on a bright day you can see the water is choppy and frozen in motion.


ISO-50 on my Canon 6D is the highest quality recording it offers, it is also the lowest light sensitivity setting as well. So let’s recap a second, are you seeing a pattern forming yet? three controls, each does two changes at once and all three controls effect light either up or down in volume. Or do they?

The ISO when set to it lowest number simply records faster digitally and so requires more light to do this and if pushed to its higher numbers like say ISO-128000 its very sensitive to light and is a lot brighter and needs less light to record a photo for you. The ISO settings cannot stop light coming into the camera once it travels through that lens and passed through the shutter, so technically speaking its not a control of light but just keep in mind that playing with these settings does make a change in the camera’s behaviour if you happen to set an ISO at a particular number in Av or Tv modes.

Let’s suppose I am indoors on a bright day and my camera is set to Av mode. If I changed my iso to iso-400 or even 800, this would be sensitive enough with the room light for the camera to auto increase the shutter speed and get you a reasonable exposure hand held.. The down side to increasing this ISO number is it creates more noise in the photo which means decreasing the quality as well. Remember the fountain photo, I shot mine at 1/4000secs in Tv mode and its ISO only went to 640 as it was a bright day on the coast plus it was a white fountain reflecting more light.

Would like to say at this point that ISO-640 is not bad! ISO quality varies per camera or mobile phone. You can shoot a pretty good photo up to 3200 ISO and with noise reduction software can make it look very good.

More about quality in a sec, I want you to understand a little of the impact of your changes in camera are making as as I said earlier – you are a Juggler of light. So here is a little exorcise, like before set your camera dial to Av and set your ISO to 100 and take a photo of something.

Next set your ISO to 800, take a shot and then 3200, Which photo’s worked out better for you? have a look on the back and zoom in using your display screen onto the object you focused on and see if the photos look any different. There are settings recorded attached to each file that the camera adds in every time you take a photo called Exif data (wiki this please). To get to this data varies per camera so look this up but if you get to this data you would see that the camera made adjustments to the F stop and the shutter speed as you changed the ISO.

HIgh ISO is Bad!… and Good!

I am hoping your not feeling to overwhelmed with all this, but if you get your head round these three main camera settings everything else is easier as all the other settings in your camera usually only need setting just once depending on what your doing but exposure is very important.

Usually its good practice to shoot in the best quality possible, especially if there is enough light as after all its our job to get the best capture possible right?. As you saw in the landscape photo with the tree the ISO was set to 50 and noise reduction was applied (more on noise and post processing in another blog). Now, it seems like a terrible thing to shoot in any ISO higher than 800 (I will go into quality on high ISO’s later and how to manage them) but there are situations when a high ISO can actually give a photo an improvement in camera without having to muck about in Photoshop.

It’s a judgement call! When canon released the 24mm to 70mm mkII lens in 2011 (a fast lens) I was lucky enough to be the first few to get hold of one and try it out shortly after buying it. I fired the shot in Av mode (Aperture Priority) at F2.8 and zoomed in at 70mm the widest & tightest it can go to see how it looked. The Canon 550D came back with a photo setting; shutter speed of 1/40s and iso6400. In colour the photo was noisy and even with noise reduction did not look good, but I knew this. I knew the camera in the low light would have to choose these settings, even with a wide aperture (or low F-stop number).

I was looking to make a black & white photo and I wanted to have natural grain in the photo as close to those old black & white film photo’s we used to see from the pro’s. I believe Sir David Bailey shoots digital now but when he does create B&W he shoots film still. So when I processed this photo I made sure no noise reduction was applied and once I added a black and white layer (and there are many to choose from in Photoshop and other filter software) the noise was now an advantage towards the look I wanted.

Some times in photos we want grain, it depends what your doing really and for some they shoot the photo perfectly and add grain afterwards in Photoshop or software like this which is fine if that works for you. As an example it may be a wedding and the color photo does not work well so you change it to B&W and if it was shot in a good ISO you may decide to add the grain if you feel it improves the shot (your call) But as I said earlier your camera is a tool just like Photoshop is, you have paid a lot of money for your camera so your first task is to do as much as possible in camera before having to tweak it afterwards (get your moneys worth!). Besides, if you get it right in camera first, then there is no need to spend time later fixing it right?

As I said earlier its a judgement call and with practice you will start to exercise this more often. Give it a go, set your camera to P mode or Av mode and iso to its auto setting and just take some snaps and see what you come up with, I hope this tutorial has been helpful, maybe its time to take some photos of ducks in case there is a duck competition?

4 Tips To Consider When Retouching A Photo

Do you want to retouch an image, but don’t know where to start? Here are expert tips that you should follow:

Retouch the Entire Image

While it may sound obvious, many beginners make the mistake of retouching only the face. For ideal results you should take your time to catch any mistakes that might be on the entire photo. For example, you should take your time to catch distracting dust spots, marks and hairs.

Don’t remove birth and other character marks. While a photo can seem too good without a given mark, you should avoid removing it. This is to ensure that the image represents the owner. For example, if you are retouching a photo of an old man with wrinkles you should retain the wrinkles in order to give character to the photo.

Removing character marks not only makes it hard to identify the person in the photo, it also gives the impression that you are poor in your photo editing skills.

Avoid Relying On Tutorials

While you will learn a thing or two on how to retouch a photo by reading tutorials, you should avoid relying on them as the photo retouching tools change every now and then. The best way of going about it is ensuring that you fully understand a program before you work with it. This way you will be able to retouch a photo even if you don’t have the tutorial with you.

Be Cautious Of Curves

“Curves” is a very powerful tool in photo editing. If you are a beginner you should be very cautious of how use it. If you don’t have any experience with the tool you should consider turning the blend mode to luminosity in order to prevent the curve from impacting the color and skin tones.

Ensure the Eyes Are Sparkling

For the photo to have a perfect finish you should retouch the eyes and ensure that they are sparkling. One of the best tools to use in getting the sparkling eyes is the Eye Doctor actions. As rule of thumb you should avoid overusing the tool in order to prevent the eyes from looking fake.

Photo Editing Tips

Who likes bad looking photos? If you have taken a photo that you feel to be bad you don’t have to worry as you can easily edit and give it a perfect look. To help you out here are some of the tips that you should put into consideration when doing the editing:


Does your photo look like it was taken by a drunk person? You should straighten it using the ruler tool. One of the best programs to use is Photoshop. You should click and hold the eyedropper tool and select the ruler tool from the drop-down menu.

Lightening the Image

You should remove the sad underexposure on the photo by adjusting the contrast. If you are using Photoshop software you can easily adjust the contrast by using the levels adjustment tool. Using the tool you can easily adjust the lights, darks, and mid-tones to give your photo the look that you have always desired.


It’s common for raw photos to have the wrong color. This results when you use unnatural, incandescent lighting when taking the photos. To give your photos a perfect look you should aim at fixing the white balance. One of the best tools to use is the Photoshop’s color balance tool. Using this tool you will be able to reduce any color issue that you might be having. For example, if your photo is yellow you have to increase the blue color.


For ideal results it’s always good that you ensure that your subject is large enough for you to clearly recognize it. You can easily enlarge your subject by cropping.

Mistakes to Avoid When Undertaking Photo Editing

Do you want your photos to be perfect? You should avoid these photo editing mistakes:

Over-cropping: while it’s good to display as much information as possible, you should avoid overdoing it. To ensure that you are cropping the image correctly you should sit down with your client and understand the features that you need to show and the ones that you should leave out.

Photo Booth Trends to Make Your Special Event Unique and Unforgettable

Photo booths are mainstays in birthday parties, weddings, reunions, corporate gatherings, and many other events. Guests patiently await their turn, not minding the long lines so that they can bring home a unique photo souvenir. From traditional booths that could print out low-resolution photos, we now enjoy booths equipped will all sorts of fun props and paraphernalia. We get to take high-resolution photos while garbed in funny hats all crazy costumes.

You can make your next family or company event the talk of the town by making the most of the latest offers from service providers. Look for the following features when you are scouting for a photo booth to rent for the occasion.

Photo canvas displayed on a mini easel

A printed mini photo canvas featuring retro and other fun filters can entice more guests to line up and await their turn on the photo booth. There is nothing more inviting than a printed photo canvas displayed on an easel. You can be sure the guests will not leave the event without taking the opportunity to get their own prints. They can channel every celebrity they want, pose like supermodels, or maybe just take a regular groupie with everyone flashing their biggest smile. It only takes three minutes to print out a photo canvas. The best booth service providers offer nothing less than high quality printing methods that produce works of art your guests will be happy to bring home with them.

Cool, one-of-a-king flipbooks

The alternative to photo canvas on display is a flipbook. This is a type of photo souvenir that allows guests to act out a series of scenes. The photos are compiled into a book that showcases the storyline or theme. These flipbooks are fun souvenirs, and can serve later as conversation starters. More conservative folks, who do not necessarily want to parade the crazy lineup of photos taken inside the booth, have a keepsake to cherish at the least. This approach deviates from the traditional offer of a series of shots printed out in strips. The flipbook is a tangible output that effectively displays the guests’ creative ideas.

Video messaging

Many wedding receptions now feature photo booths that allow guests to take pictures of themselves while wearing funny costumes and props. The most modern photo booths even take video messages for the newly married couple. The couple will have time to browse these digital souvenirs later after the rush of the reception is over and they have had time to breath. These days, when guests what to express their wishes they can opt to step inside the photo booth and record a video message instead of writing a note.

Booths equipped for “selfies”

These days, photo booths with facilities such as the “selfie” mirror are huge hits. Millenials cannot get enough of taking selfies. Even middle-aged individuals and children who have joined the bandwagon cannot seem to resist the chance of taking photos of themselves, especially when they are all made up and wearing their best. The Selfie Mirror is 21st century photo booth technology that gives the subject just enough time so strike a pose and takes the photo automatically. Aside from graphics and printing options, some booths even allow for instant sharing of the selfies or groupies taken on social media platforms.

5 Quick and Easy Tips on How to Take an Awesome Selfie

With the release of Kim Kardashian’s new book “Selfish” dedicated exclusively to her selfies, it’s clear to see that the selfie trend is here to stay! Who wouldn’t like selfies – it’s like a mini photo shoot where you’re the model, photographer, lighting director, makeup artist and stylist! Whether you’re posting selfies to show off your amazing makeup or your outfit of the day, here are some tips that are sure to have your Instagram followers double tapping and your Facebook friends pressing the like button.

1) Make sure the light is right! Lighting is one of the most important factors when trying to take a flawless selfie. Make sure the lighting doesn’t cast shadows (as this can draw attention to unwanted areas and make facial features appear larger, such as the nose) and try to avoid fluorescent lighting, as this type of lighting is universally unflattering and can make the skin look pale and lifeless. The best type of lighting to use is natural light, if possible!

2) Know your angles! It may take time and some experimenting at first to find your best angles, but it will be worth it! Try different poses and movements to see which ones flatter both your face and body. Knowing your best angles and how to work them is definitely an important factor when taking a selfie. Also, play around with the placement of the camera – you don’t want your selfie to be too close or too far away. A low placed camera angle is usually best to be avoided as it is an unflattering angle for most people.

3) Pick a natural pose! This goes hand in hand with knowing your angles – it’s best to pick a natural pose that doesn’t look too forced or awkward. Play around with head tilts, smiles, and facial expressions until you find the selfie that you like the best.

4) Use caution when choosing a filter! Filters are both amazing and a curse as they can completely change the way a selfie looks. Choose a filter that’s more on the conservative side that adds a flawless look to the selfie, instead of an extreme filter that edits the selfie so much that you don’t even look like yourself anymore. There’s nothing worse than posting a selfie that’s edited so much that people don’t realize it’s you!

5) Write a witty caption! The caption can be describing your makeup, what you’re doing that day, where you’re about to go, details on your outfit – pretty much anything goes! Selfie’s with a caption or description are just that much better than selfies without, and are more likely to gain likes from your followers. Double points if your caption is clever and funny!

Most of all, it’s important to remember that selfies are fun and for the most part, effortless. Don’t take yourself too seriously when trying to take the perfect selfie, and remember – if at first you don’t like any of the selfies you’ve taken, you can always try again and again! Happy selfie-ing!